I've been waiting to finish up with some major life stuff before diving into the world of 3D printers. Now that is finally behind me, and I am currently trying to find out which printer I want so that I can place an order.
So far I've set my eyes on the new Prusa CORE One. It ticks a lot of the boxes that I think I am after, including: - As open as I can get (before going into that Voron-stuff, which I think I'm not ready for). I don't want to be bogged down with having to run proprietary slicers through Wine and things like that. I am not sure how big of an issue that is with e.g. Bambu or Creality (if at all), but I've seen enough rug-pulls and enshittification processes that I don't really want to risk that. I want to be sure that I can use FOSS tools such as Blender and FreeCAD for design, and similarly open slicers, and the whole workflow will work just fine. - As future-proof as I can possibly hope for. I think the upgrade path from the MK4 to CORE One shows that they are serious about sustainability and longevity of their devices, and as far as I can tell, I should have no troubles sourcing replacement parts. I also want to support companies with this philosophy. - Has a decent print volume (I know there are bigger, maybe I will be constrained by this at some point?) - Enclosed - a major reason I did not want the MK4S was that it was not enclosed (but maybe you can get an enclosure?). It will be placed in my study where I spend most of my computer time (which often times is a lot, so I imagine I will be in the room while it is printing). I imagine, with the additional filter, that it will be better with an enclosure. Also, it will be easier to keep good temperature control during prints, as it can get cold here during winter. - Locally produced (I'm EU based).
I understand that other manufacturers provide more "bang for the buck" and that I in that sense will be overpaying feature-wise. I am fine with that given my emphasis on the above criteria.
However, I am a complete newbie to 3D-printing. I am sure there are some limitations I have not thought about, and I was wondering if there are any major things I have not thought about that would actually affect me negatively and should make me reconsider this model?
you might wanna checkout ratrig too, they're a Portuguese company (tho I don't know where they manufacture the printers, Prusa has factory in Prague) and are kind of open too.
As for Slicer, you can use Prusaslicer for Bambulab or Creality, Bambulab has their own slicer opensourced (actually fork from Prusaslicer) and AFAIK works on linux.
You'll always be able to use freecad, blender whatever modelling tool. You model it and export STL, which can be then fed into any slicer.
As for HW, it's hard to say. Průša core one isn't much more pricey than Bambu, what it can do we shall yet to see.
Bambulab started as closed source, but it seems they've been opening at least some of it (they now allow custom firmware, allegedly offline firmware updates, so you can run them fully offline), whereas Průša has moved from the 100% opensource to someting more restrictive, still being much more open than Bambulab.
N. B. I'm a Prusa owner and have never owned a Bambulab.
I just realized that there are some important questions that none of us are asking (it sounded like you've already done some research, and have an idea of what you want (or at least what you think you need), but just so that everyone's all on that same page):
What are you looking to get out of the hobby?
What is your tolerance for tinkering? Or in other words, are you willing to learn and fiddle with the machine or would you rather it "just work"?
What kinds of things are you looking to print (not necessarily mutually exclusive categories: big things, small details, multi-color, outdoor/ automotive, etc)
In general, I want to build my skill set to include CAD-modelling and printing things that could help me around my home and for other non-helpful, but fun, things. Some examples below. I am not looking at adding this to my professional skill set.
What is your tolerance for tinkering? Or in other words, are you willing to learn and fiddle with the machine or would you rather it “just work”?
In general, I would like to tinker some. But I don't want it to be prohibitively difficult to get started. I am new to this, and am not looking for an incredibly steep learning curve. For instance, I have understood that the Voron might suit my desire for openness more, but my impression is that it would be too much tinkering at this stage.
What kinds of things are you looking to print (not necessarily mutually exclusive categories: big things, small details, multi-color, outdoor/ automotive, etc)
The immediate projects I have in mind are cases for various Pi/Pi Pico-based projects. Some indoor climate monitors for instance. There are several other smaller projects I have in mind, which could be for instance some custom mounts for my devices. So not too large things to begin with, and these things are what is most important to me now. But I want a multipurpose printer, that could handle both smaller figurines and larger sculptures also (not that exceeds the print volume of the Core One as of now). I know for instance that miniatures would probably be a lot better with a resin printer, but for now I don't have a space that is properly ventilated for this. In the future I will consider getting more specialized printers if I find that I need it and have space for it.
What’s your budget?
The Core One is in the higher end of what I had envisioned spending on this, but I can go a little higher if necessary
Tbh it sounds like the core one is a good choice here. Look at tinkering as something you use the printer to do and less as something to do to the printer itself.
I've got 2 prusas and while the XL has required a bit more work than my mk3s+ they both are excellent machines that I've run for thousands of hours with very little effort.
Welcome to the hobby! CAD modeling is the absolute best way to make your printer useful. A good pair of calipers are all you need to solve myriad issues around the house.
Depending on how much you value open source vs domestic production, part of me thinks that you may want to consider the Sovol SV08. Sovol is based out of China, but that printer is basically a Voron 2.4 modified for mass production (ie much of the printer comes preassembled), and because of it the printer is very open source, as in here's the GitHub repo. My only major concern would be that the machine ships with a non-standard hot end, however I recently learned (Here) that the community already has a mod to fix that. You also gain a much bigger build volume, for a fraction of the upfront investment. (Edit: That said, it may not be the most beginner friendly machine in existence (see replies))
I'm also somewhat hesitant to recommend a machine that isn't out and doesn't really have any reviews yet. With any new product launch like this, I'd almost guarantee that there will be a teething period as the bugs, glitches, and hiccups all get worked out (as goes the early adopter tax). Which means that you may face a slightly steeper leaning curve as someone new to the hobby (Prusa has been around for a hot minute, so I don't expect it to be too bad, but it's still worth mentioning). That said, if none of that scares you and if you're already prepared for the pricetag, Prusa's are known to be absolute workhorses, there's no reason they can't be entry level machines.
SV08 is a flying gantry Core-XY printer with a print area of 350x350x345mm, also a derivative work based on Voron V2.4. It aims to provide an alternative solution for 3D printing enthusiasts who ar...
The SV08 has been out since at least summer. I've had mine since September and I'm super satisfied with it. It is not a beginners machine however, there are a couple of mandatory tweaks and upgrades to make it usable. Nothing unsurmountable but having modded the shit out of my Ender 3 helped a lot.
I have had a SV08 for a few weeks. Had a K1 Max for the same time period. I had 2 or two failed prints on the SV08 and about 3 dozen failed prints.
I returned the K1 Max (with huge struggles with support)
Previously I had a Labist ET4 that only worked for a out 5 prints total before giving up on it.
I will agree with your statement. If you are willing to put in a bit of research on YouTube and GITHUB and swap a few parts and spend a few hours you'll have a hilarious large printer that just spits out almost anything you throw at it, besides ABS and ASA... For now...
I don't personally own one, so that's really good to know! I mostly thought of it since it checked most of what OP was looking for, without being a full on Voron. That's said, I'm not sure how much of a beginner machine the Core One will be either. Regardless, I'll add a proceed with caution on my recommendation.
Out of curiosity, what upgrades did you have to make to sv08?
(I also graduated from the Thessian Ender 3 program and went to a v2.4)
I had to swap the stock fan for a Noctua since it was unbearably loud, adjust the volumetric flow and spend some time adjusting the Z-offset. I should also tension the belts a bit but it looks super non-trivial.
I am happy MK4S owner and would recommend the CORE, but some considerations:
- Print volume IS small. Not having at least 250x250 x/y has been a step back from my previous printer. - The platform is less open than I wished (or, better said, than they make us believe). - I'd recommend getting the kit so you will get to know the printer better. However, CORE's build process difficulty is yet to be seen. I built my own MK4S and it was a fun weekend project.
Print volume IS small. Not having at least 250x250 x/y has been a step back from my previous printer.
Hm, I don't think I can quite grasp how much of a difference it would make to have a couple of cm extra in each direction. For my actual planned projects, I know it will be sufficient (except for one, where none of the consumer grade printers would be, and I would need to splice multiple parts somehow). But I also know that the list of planned projects will expand much faster than I am able to plan, design and print...
The platform is less open than I wished (or, better said, than they make us believe).
Hm, in what way have you experienced any problems with this? I understand that it is not fully open source, but as far as I could tell, you can't go much more open without going with a Voron?
I’d recommend getting the kit so you will get to know the printer better. However, CORE’s build process difficulty is yet to be seen. I built my own MK4S and it was a fun weekend project.
I would love to get the kit, both as a learning experience and a fun project. However, they are not shipping the kits until April/May or something like that, while the assembled printers start shipping in January. I don't think I want to wait that long.
In practice, I haven’t found the print volume of my MK4 to be too limiting. Occasionally more X/Y would be nice, but plenty of parts that are too big for my printer would be too big for any printer and still need to be cut. The other issue is that even fast 3d printers are slow and I don’t really print things that take entire days. Even printing dactyl keyboard halves takes hours thanks to the need for supports, so I can’t imagine someone frequently doing really huge prints (particularly in height).
I have also thought that the prints where I need more volume would not be solved by an additional cm or two in the xy-plane, and would need to be spliced in some way. How is that process anyway? Do you use a glue gun or a 3D pen to do this splicing? My guess it will not look very pretty, but could I expect to be able to make watertight seals for example?
There are a fair number of methods to join pieces into larger assemblies.
Some people have used a 3D pen to "weld" an assembly. But from my observation, it's not particularly strong. Super glues are popular for PLA. It bonds and holds well to PLA. PETG is better glued with epoxies vs super glues. But super glue will work in a pinch. Sometimes printing threaded parts is acceptable. But issues with fitment and strength of threads can be a problem. Simple machine screws and nuts are good for somethings. Even self-tapping screws are popular. Heat set brass threaded inserts are cheaply and widely available. And can be set with a cheap soldering iron. Various "snap together couplers" can be designed and 3D printed.
These are just a few ways to make assemblies with 3D printed parts. The trick is to learn how to choose what is the best for any particular model and that's on you.
Making a model hold water can be as simple as "the thicker is better" approach by adding more perimeters and top and bottom layers. Or it can involve applying various suitable paints and sealers. Again like fasteners, your use will most likely dictate the methods that you choose.
Edit to add: From what I can see, PrusaSlicer currently offers the best tools to create cuts and locators right in the slicer. With perhaps Cura a close second, (but I haven't use Cura in couple of years now).
When splitting a model into chunks, one important thing is to not just cut it along a flat plane, but instead design in tabs and slots so that the pieces locate and interlock.
In addition to gluing pieces together with things like cyanoacrylate (super glue) and epoxy, it's also possible to solvent-weld them together with things like acetone or other solvents that depend on what kind of filament you're using (e.g. ethyl acetate for PLA). Such solvents can also be used for vapor-smoothing. They're relatively nasty chemicals, though, so you need ventilation and PPE and whatnot.
Even an object printed as a single unit may not necessarily be watertight because of pinhole gaps between layers.
In general, if you want your final object to be watertight, look good after being spliced together, or even just not look obviously 3D-printed, you should expect that you're going to have to sand/fill it (with e.g. bondo) and paint it.
If you want to make something like a food-safe container or a sex toy (i.e. where it's important that the material both be non-toxic and not have any layer line crevices that could harbor bacteria), your best bet is to 3D-print a mold or blank, finish it as described above, and then use that to cast the actual finished part out of some other material like silicone or metal.
No, .step file is an exchange format, (think .pdf files), that can be used across different CAD programs to import geometry so you can work on them.
Unlike the common .stl format, a .step file contains a majority of the internal information that was created by original CAD model. While an .stl file is just meshes and nothing else.
PrusaSlicer can use .step files directly to slice. But I'm not sure that other forks/slicers can. I like models in .step file because it's far easier to open them in whatever 3D CAD software I'm using to make changes to a model to suit my needs. I can do .st' files, but it's a pain to work with them.
For many people the size will be fine. Most people can get along with 180 cubed for probably 80% of their printing needs. Not a lot of people need the really large print volumes.
I would assume that a CORE kit would come with Prusa's excellent assembly instructions. Which should make it quite easy to put together.
I'm starting to think that Prusa is switching their focus from consumer grade printers to entry level pro machines and better. Prusa can't really afford to be in that market as the race to the bottom accelerates. But there is a niche for small business use and full blown commercial use. Qidi seems to be the only player in that market right now. And the CORE seems to offer all the goodies that Qidi has with a much better reputation for reliability and support that would appeal to a small business.
I am sharing my personal experience with the MK4S, since I went down from a 256^3 printer.
Belt tensioning on the MK4S Kit was a pain to do, so I am curious how belt tensioning for a core kit will go. I hope they give a better solution than the tuning app, as tensioning belts for a core xy is noticeably harder.
Neither of these are blockers anyway, like I said, I am happy with my MK4S.
Yeah, There are some maintenance things with CoreXY I'm not overly impressed with. The belts being one of them. Still, I think they are the future for consumer printers now. It's going to be interesting to see how the CORE does in the market.
I did consider an up grade to my Mk3s to Mk4 abilities. But in the end I didn't figure it was worth the money and effort for my needs. In the end, it might be considered slow now but it's a tank of a printer. I am considering upgrading the control system by adding Klipper to my Raspberry Pi and flashing new firmware for the old 8bit Rambo board. It sounds like it would get me a Mk3.5 level of control and speed.
I advise against getting the brand new thing. My experience has been that frequently the reliability and feature set of yet-to-be-released things tend to be highly overstated. The CORE looks cool but I would give it six months after release before you consider buying one so you can see some real reviews.
Prusa has a pretty decent track record but they are really branching out of their comfort zone now and I would be cautious.
If you don’t want to wait, the Bambu P1S is a phenomenal printer. I wish they were more open along with everyone else but I have many, many, many hours on mine and has been an excellent purchase. It was a massive upgrade from my Prusa Mk3S.
I don't like the closed nature of manufacturers like bambu, but damn the Prusa fanclup is sniffing some pretty strong copium these days. The core One is way overpriced for a medium-sized (bordering a bit small these days TBH) coreXY printer with nothing out of the ordinary with regards to capabilities.
Yeah, ideally it would already be out and I could look at some reviews. The timing is such that I want to get one now, and I would hesitate to get a MK4S instead where the Core One seems to better fit my wants. If it was either a brand new company or a printer that somehow revolutionized 3D-printing, I would be more hesitant to order before launch. But seeing as Prusa is an established company, and they are not reinventing the wheel here, I feel more comfortable (even as you say, they are stretching out of their comfort-zone - but isn't one of their commercial grade printers already core xy?).
The XL is indeed corexy but it’s also marketed to professionals who would be able to navigate any issues. I’ve seen some mixed reviews on if it’s good.
FWIW, Prusa has definitely had some major failures. The MMU2 was fundamentally broken on release with sensors that were unreliable at best and the community had to step in with replacement models to get it even somewhat reliable.
Just be wary of trusting the brand. I like Prusa too but they aren’t immune to misses.
For me, pre-purchasing a Phrozen resin printer that every single YouTube influencer assured me was the absolute best printer ever made only for it to be an absolute mess that just sits on my shelf unused because it is complete garbage, was my lesson to wait for the reviews.
I'm pretty sure everything about Creality is Free Software, including both firmware and their self-branded slicing software (which I think is a fork of Slic3r, just like everybody else's?).
I just bought an Ender 3 V3 SE and have been using it with FreeCAD and PrusaSlicer (on Linux) and sometimes controlling the printer with Octoprint -- I haven't even bothered downloading anything from Creality yet.
I picked the printer because it's supposedly currently the best cheap 3D printer (mine was an open-box from Microcenter for $135). It doesn't tick your last three boxes, but you can't beat the price!
Assuming heat creep. Pla's transition temp is like, in the low 50s +/- a few deg c if I recall, it goes wet noodle and can easily cause jams, absolute pain in my ass doing a bunch of pla prints in the summer on my mk3s inside a prusa enclosure, ended up setting the plate to something like 30c, had issues even with the 140mm exhaust fan on to try dropping the chamber temp. I rarely print pla in my voron, it's basically hot bed set very low and relying on my print surface to keep the print anchored when I do. Not had issues with petg in an enclosure, personally would recommend using an enclosure for all prints anyhow, even pla gives off some nasties as far as I recall.
I personally prefer abs to either petg or pla for general use, I keep all on hand as there's not a filament best for all use cases.
Edit: Assuming you have an enclosure filter. I highly recommend something like the nevermore (use a stealthmax on my voron). I do also keep my printers outside of my home, which I know not everyone can do. If I had them inside, I'd set up something to vent the room outside as well as having enclosure filters, some filaments are worse than others, Nevermore includes citations to a bunch of relevant studies regarding air pollution while printing
Absolutely! Sorry my bad, first thing I did for my prusa enclosure was create recirc filter and did the same thing with my voron so my brain just assumed it was standard practice
Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't Prusa specifically say you don't need to keep the CORE One doesn't need to be open because of its temperature control?
It's not perfectly open Source. Upgradeability can be reasonably expected, it's not the cheapest, but a very good option.
One more thing that could be considered is if one believes Prusa may die as a company. That would of course reduce the aspect of upgradeability. Personally I believe they are fine, and just growing slower (more organically? Than Bambu for example).
Also Bambu will bring out another printer in a similar timeframe as Core 1 will come out. Depending on priorities it can make sense to wait to compare the offerings.
But I don't think, given your reasonig you'd be making a mistake if you could buy now.
I'm not so sure Prusa will go out of business. But I can see them switching focus from consumer machines to "pro-consumer" machines due to the race to the bottom with consumer machines. It's impossible for Prusa to compete with Chinese manufacturers on price. The XL and the HT90 already appear to be moves towards that focus.
While I have recently added a Bambu A1 mini to sit along side my trusty old Mk3s+, that Prusa ain't going nowhere. You will get my Mk3s when you can pry it from my cold dead hands..........
One thing that people neglect to mention when they debate "Bambu vs Prusa" is the level of support. And support costs money. Prusa's level of support is why I chose their brand over other far more expensive printers I was looking at the time. That support level matters to a business. And they are willing to pay for it. So Prusa is well situated to enter the commercial market as a known name.
But even the cost difference might get recouped later on, if Prusa continues releasing upgrade kits the way they've been doing it for the i3 line. Support is also excellent. I broke a thermistor while upgrading a printer, and they sent me a free replacement because it was unclear if it was my fault or not.
Another disadvantage might be that you'll become a militant Prusa fanboy, and never look at another brand again ;)
Yeah, I'm OK with the cost of it. I don't only consider a feature vs. price picture, but also factor in things (like you say) support and longevity/sustainability.
The militant fanboyism surprised me a bit (maybe it shouldn't have?) - looking at some of the comments below YouTube-reviews was.... interesting...
Honestly, militant is probably not the right word. But I work with Prusas at my workplace, and the idea of buying a non-Prusa printer actually irks me.
I don’t want to be bogged down with having to run proprietary slicers through Wine and things like that. I am not sure how big of an issue that is with e.g. Bambu or Creality (if at all), but I’ve seen enough rug-pulls and enshittification processes that I don’t really want to risk that.
You can use PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, Cura or some other slicer with them. They run perfectly fine in LAN-mode removing the Bamub Lab server stuff/question from the equation.
While not every replacement parts are also made by third party companies things like nozzles, PEI-sheets or fans are available from third parties.
As future-proof as I can possibly hope for.
I would argue money in the bank account is far more future-proof than any 3D printer can be and Bambu Lab costs a fraction of what a Prusa core one costs. So when the future arrives use the saved money to buy a next-gen printer.
Locally produced (I’m EU based).
Bambu Labs are well made so not a safety hazard but I can understand this point.
The Prusa core one looks very promising but at the same time, it isn't for everybody and the general consumer is likely better of by buying the P1S. For the price of 1 Prusa One you could buy 2 Bambu Lab P1S and 10-20kg of good PETG.
regarding Support: Difficult question. Prusa has excellent support but the last experience I had with their printers before dropping them wasn't that great and was riddled by issues/bugs. BambuLab on the other have the it just works magic but the support needs to improve. You send them a bunch of log files as requested. They probably only look at the oldest file (that might be months old) and provide a "wrong" reply based on that as a solution without looking at the text you wrote.
I think you'll be happy. Coming from someone that's had a prusa mini for 3 years.
I also use FreeCAD, and I don't think you'll have a problem with that with any modern slicer, you can export in step to let the slicer do the meshing, or you can use the mesh workbench to get more control over the resolution of the mesh.
Don't worry too much about print volume. Can always break stuff up into multiple prints, and that's often a good idea even if the whole thing would fit inside the print volume.
I have killed a couple build plates, one from the TPU print sticking too well to PEI, and pulling chunks off, one from crashing the nozzle into it after I switched from a bare metal build plate to a PEI one without changing the Z offset.
Other than that, I've only really replaced one fan that was getting noisy.
As for filament, I use mostly PLA and ASA, because I don't need to do anything special to keep those dry enough to print. Probably around 60% PLA, 25% ASA, 15% TPU. PETG is fine, but I need to dry it to keep from getting steam bubbles in my prints, and can't really be bothered when I can just use ASA or PLA instead.
As for TPU, it will string like crazy if you don't dry it, but you can mitigate this with some parts by turning on "avoid crossing perimeters". Also try to avoid support material with TPU. I now print TPU on the back side(bare metal) of a third party build plate, using a very thin layer of glue stick.
#Meryl a #SniperWolf jsou teda designovaný jako uber-ženy, ale co mě nejvíc pobavilo je, že jsem si v posledních záběrech uvědomil, že podle AI by v podstatě #SolidSnake měl bejt #AdamSandler alias #Zohan, stačí přidat bandanu 😁
Proč jste mi nikdo neřekl, že existuje #Tahlo? Já pitomec tahal děti na zbylých popruzích od brašen z notebooků (což teda - nebudem si lhát - neni moc nebezpečný, protože nepruží).
Délka 1,5 - 4,5 metru už je slušná elasticita na to, abych nemusel bejt za každou zatáčkou podělanej, jestli neni popruh namotanej na #kolo
@Honza Mě napadá milion a jeden způsob využití. Třeba loni jsem holky vozil na eKoloběžce na zmrzlý vodě jako na skútru. Takhle je můžu zapřáhnout s podprdelníkama a můžou fičet jak satani! 😁 @Mikromobilita CZ/SK
Divný .. já tím, jak si neustále přenášim /home i s vnitřnostma a předchozíma nastaveníma vždycky narazim na něco, co s tím nepočítalo a dělá to různý větší nebo menší glitche 😁
Takže se mi třeba stávalo, že kvůli Ubuntu po mně chtěl systém flatpakovej Firefox namísto repozitářovýho a podobný kravinky
No, takže proto mám rád ty čistý instalace - jak se po letech zahálení objeví všichni ty wizardi, nastaví všechno tak, jak to dev plánoval a všechno běhá jako po drátkách 😁
@jackc Myslím že neztrácíš. Pulse bylo praktické a vedle toho byl jack který byl nízkolatenční. Pipewire je z mého pohledu kombinace obojího. Na spodu je myslím furt alsa která abstrahuje hardware. Asi 😁
Blahopřejeme našim syrským sestrám a bratrům ke konci diktatury rodinného klanu Asada, která jejich zemi sužovala více než půl století a způsobovala nepředstavitelné utrpení plné válek, mučení a poprav, vedoucí ke snížení populace Sýrie z 23 milionů na 15 kvůli neustálému krveprolití a následným emigracím.
Velitel Free Syrian Army, která zastřešuje koalici bojující opozice (ve které jsou i nesekulární a nedemokratické islamistické skupiny, které ovšem bojovaly proti ISIS jako přehánějícím a nebezpečným extrémistům i z jejich pohledu), počítá s tím, že tito tvoří menšinu bojujících a Sýrie by se měla posunout jinam - a neopakovat vměšování zahraničních džihádistických skupin v mocenském vakuu.
Tady kousek rozhovoru (TimesOfIsrael) s velitelem, po začátku ofenzívy před 10 dny v Alepu:
Otázkou je skutečné mocenské rozložení a síly na zemi a skutečné možnosti spolupráce frakcí i po pádu Asada.
Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS) se poslední roky profiluje jako poměrně "liberální" skupina (v porovnání s jinými džihádistickými islamistickými skupinami), která ochraňuje menšiny a nepodniká nějaké šílené excesy, i když jeho členové jsou recyklovaní žoldáci jiných poražených islamistů...
In interview with ToI, a Free Syrian Army officer expresses hope for friendly relations with Jewish state, warns of Iranian militias propping up Assad: 'They will come for Israel, too'
Klukovina, která by prej měla připomínat třeba útok na #FFUK (připomeňte mi, ten David byl Islámista? Asi ne, co?) a ty dva koně teď někdo popotahuje za hluk a zakřičení Allahu Akbar 😁
Docela by mě zajímalo, které jednání je v tomto případě ilegální - Allahu Akbar neznamená Heil Hitler a dělobuchy si může pouštět a koupit kdekdo.
Evidentně #PolicieČR nemá dojem, že kdo si hraje, nezlobí. Kluky bych asi nechválil, ale #IZS si tímto aspoň otestovalo akceschopnost v podobným průseru, jako byl v Praze, což považuju v podstatě za výbornej benefit.
Jedinej, kdo by měl bejt nasranej, jsou ty lidi, co se schovávali před domnělým útočníkem, kterej neexistuje - zároveň je ale nutné vyzdvihnout, že to byla unikátní možnost praxi vyzkoušet, jak se zachovají místní civilisti.
Poplácejme tedy IZS po zádech, kluci už to znova asi dělat nebudou a jedeme dál...
@nacelnik01 Já ten nesouhlas chápu - bejt tam, taky by mě to nasralo - ale nevidím žádný protiprávní jednání, pokud jim neprokážou úmysl, jako když třeba někdo hlásí, že na škole je bomba.
Takhle by si za chvíli nikdo nemohl ani zahrát Counter Strike 😁 @Levkemyk
!Friendica Support Is there any way to debug why this post is not showing image? It seems like it disappeared right after I commented this post.
Tak jsem se přidal...
[url=https://schmaker.eu/photo/1829659797675477731ca2d437304301-0.png][img=https://schmaker.eu/photo/1829659797675477731ca2d437304301-1.png][/img][/url]
The URL in the photo is taken from the instance I'm currently on... Strange. I tested it on 3 different instances, see photos. Sorry for my english, I use a translator. 😉
@Jools oh thanks. That calms my panic. So it is a bug in "displaying" data or it is a local cache, that is only available for my own timeline AND a display bug ..
Tak jsem se přidal...
[url=https://schmaker.eu/photos/schmaker/image/1829659797675477731ca2d437304301][img=https://schmaker.eu/photo/1829659797675477731ca2d437304301-1.png][/img][/url]
To me it seems like frontend is not even trying to render the image for some reason and I do think the issue started as soon as I responded to linked comment.
Edit: Somehow it fixed itself when I reedited the post. I have no idea why...
A víte vy co? Mě ta reakce ČT (viz mastodon.social/@danielsnor/11…) vlastně docela sere, tak jsem jim napsal. Když nic jinýho, tak aspoň budou vědět, že nám to není úplně fuk. Jestli jim chcete napsat taky (info@ceskatelevize.cz), tak klidně vyjděte z mojí zprávy (je v alt textu).
Chápu Tě ale očekával bych, že právní oddělení ČT na to koukalo hlavně z pohledu risk managementu.
To, že oficiálně vypadající profil spravuje 3. strana bez jakéhokoliv smluvního vztahu prostě šťastné není (viz. tady: witter.cz/@ruza/11360644826237… @ruza )
Pokud tato debata povede k oficiálním účtům nebo instanci ČT, tak to bude super.
@aikencz já s váma vlastně souhlasím, ale chápu i stranu ČT že se brání aby se za ně někdo vydával (oni to možná i musí dělat?). Je to třeba i o riziku že se Šnor (nic osobního) zblázní a začne ty oficiálně vypadající zprávy manipulovat.
Danielovi patří velký dík za opečovávání @zpravobot a ČT by měla následovat příklad @irozhlas a dalších.
@tensob_ @ruza Já chápu, že to z právního hlediska dokonce asi museli poslat. Dalo se to ale rozhodně formulovat mnohem líp (aktuálně je z toho spíš místní PR katastrofa) a zároveň s tím mohl bejt spojenej krok (nebo aspoň příslib) si tu udělat vlastní profily/instanci. Místo toho, aby z toho udělali win-win situaci, je to lose-lose.
@tensob_ @ruza tohle riziko by nejlépe vyřešili, kdyby udělali oficiální účet. Když tu nejsou, přirozeně to vakuum vyplní někdo jiný. Ne, že by jim to bralo nějaký čas. Je to něco, co se jednou nastaví a dál se na to nemusí sáhnout.
@schmaker Dalo by se jim (jako mnohým jiným) ještě připomenout, že setrváváním na Muskově platformě podporují a tímpádem i propagují dezinformace a lži. @Razemix
protože mi jakožto uživateli otevřené sítě Fediverse nemohlo uniknout jednání Vašeho právního oddělení vůči zrcadlícím RSS botům pana Šnora, nemohu situaci ponechat bez reakce.
zpravobot.news/@CT24zive/11360… Na začátek chci uvést, že nejsem s panem Šnorem nijak spřízněný a mým zájmem je pouze zachování normální kultury v rámci otevřených internetových komunit.
Nejprve mne sice jednání právního oddělení velice rozhořčilo, nicméně jeho zavádějící zhodnocení toho, co na síti reálně boti pana Šnora dělají přičítám neznalosti technologií systémů napojených na Fediverse a celkově principu těchto robotů.
Vezmu to postupně:
1. "(...) účty jsou koncipovány tak, že v běžném uživateli vzbudí dojem, že se jedná o oficiální profily České Televize (...)"
- Toto tvrzení se nezakládá na pravdě (viz přiložený screenshot) - všechny účty jsou označeny jako "boti" a že se jedná o zrcadlení oficiálních účtů + bot uvádí, ze kterých stránek importuje.
2. "K článkům a příspěvkům, které jsou veřejnosti sdělovány na oficiálních účtech a webových stránkách České televize, vykonává veškerá práva Česká televize (...) jejich další užití je možné pouze s výslovným souhlasem ČT (...)" - Při této logice by veškeré vyhledávací enginy na internetu musely mít výslovný souhlas ČT k indexování obsahu. Protože však ani webové vyhledávací enginy, ani zprávoboti pana Šnora nevydávají tento obsah za vlastní, nemyslím si, že se tady jedná o jakékoliv porušení práva ČT k vlastnímu obsahu.
3. "Na Vašich účtech (...) žádáte o finanční podporu (...)" - Pan Šnor sice na stránce zprávobota o finanční podporu žádá, nicméně nejedná se o monetizaci obsahu tak, jak to vyhodnotilo Vaše právní oddělení, ale o příspěvek na provoz, samozřejmě HW a jeho provoz něco stojí a veškeré dary jsou dobrovolné. Opět se rád vrátím k mému příkladu search enginů - při této logice by Vaše právní oddělení totiž muselo u Google požadovat odstranení placené inzerce u vyhledávacích výsledků zahrnujících stránky České televize - což si přes svoji právní naivitu rozhodně neumím představit, jako reálné.
Právní stránku ochranné známky vynechávám záměrně - tam situaci chápu, byť ji považuji právním oddělením za nesmyslně vyhrocenou.
Dopis adresovaný panu Šnorovi v podstatě říká, že i jako uživatel sociální sítě nemohu odkazovat na Vaše články, protože nemám výslovný souhlas ČT, což je naprosto absurdní a v podstatě v rozporu s účelem veřejnoprávního média vytvářejícího zpravodajství z povinných koncesionářských poplatků o jejichž navýšení televize usiluje. Chci tímto tedy požádat ČT o vyřešení situace tak, aby věc byla právně v pořádku - ať už se bude jednat o udělení výslovného oprávnění k sdílení příspěvků v rámci sociální sítě Fediverse (které si ale přes to všechno nemyslím, že je potřeba) anebo otevření Vašich vlastních účtů.
Zároveň bych chtěl připomenout, že pokud jste schopni za peníze z koncesionářských poplatků umožňovat zisk soukromým sociálním sítím, bylo by vhodné neházet klacky pod nohy tam, kde si plátci poplatků poradili sami. Naopak si myslím, že je třeba brát v potaz, že se v principu jedná o reklamu na stránky ČT a za to by ČT na jiné sociální síti platila.
Rozhodně, ale už se mi nejednou stalo, že podobnej předem-prohranej boj vyšel.
Třeba Budvaru jsem psal/volal (už je to dlouho, nejsem si jistej), že jim utekla vadná šarže piva. Zavolal nějakej jejich manažer, že moc děkuje a tahle šarže měla bejt dávno celá stažená. Pak přijela krásná obchoďačka a s úsměvem mi dovalila 50 plechovek 😁
@schmaker Haha, zase úplně to samý. 🙃 Mám to teda chápat tak, že fakt věřej tomu, že posílat na sítě odkazy na jejich články je protiprávní? Se jí možná zeptám ještě jednou na tohle. 😄
@Schmaker @Radomír Žemlička Není tu nějaký advokát, že by nám pro tu žádost vytvořil právní "košilku"? Ideální by bylo, aby tam byl odkaz na "případ" pana Šnora, a zároveň by bylo dobré, kdyby se našly předpisy, které by je jako veřejnou instituci nutily se těmi žádostmi zabývat. jeslti je něco jako stošestka...
Když někdo splní přání číslo dva, tak: 1. Maminka bude mít kde bydlet 2. Dvě děti budou mít kde bydlet 3. Jiná maminka s náhodným počtem dětí bude mít kde bydlet, protože se uvolní jedno místo v domově pro matky s dětmi
Ano, je to daleko od běžnýho dárku v krabici, ale doufat ve Vánoční zázrak můžem, ne? 😀
Jeden dárek (Lenku) vybrala Lenička a už letí z e-shopu, druhej (jetý dětský odrážedlo) ještě vylepšíme - co by to bylo za žihadlo bez zvonečku a košíčku! - a vyletí taky 😀
Holky zasekly ovladač na zem mezi stůl a gauč, kde je strašně malá škvíra. Poslal jsem je s tím do háje, ať to vyřeší.
.. slyšim práci s metrem z obýváku ..
Lenička (7): "Ruka má 6 centimetrů a škvíra má 4 centimetry, takže to se tam nevejde. Ale když použijeme vařečku, tak ta má jen 3 centimetry a ta by se tam vešla." Lenička k Elišce: "I s tou vařečkou je ruka pořád krátká, ale když mi přineseš lepící pásku a štěteček, tak vyrobíme takovou naběračku a to bysme tam mohly dosáhnout!"
.. lepící páska se zrovna pohřešuje ..
Já: "Tak tam zkus sáhnout shora koštětem a vyšťouchat to" Lenička: "Tim koštětem bych se musela trefit přesně doprostřed a to by zvládl jen Pavlo Pikasok"
.. chce si to udělat po svým, z obýváku slyšim plány jako by se snažila vyrobit stroj času ..
Lenička: "Vezmu tohle .. kde je finiš? .. takhle to zamotám .. tudy tam šáhnu .. tady si vezmu .. mám tři .. utáhnout"
Když si přiblížíte obrázek, tak na stupních vítězů jsou i vtipný detaily, jako že: 1. Stupně jsou očíslované 1st, 2st a 3st 2. Na stupni 1st stojí "já" 3. Na stupni 1st drží "já" největší ovladač, na stupni 2st má menší, protože je druhej 😁
I stumbled across this way to change a suggested route in #Cyclers. You don't drag and drop points, you just draw with your finger where you want to go. I could be wrong, but I haven't seen this in any other navigation app. I think it's cool.
@KlausGerdGiesen that's strange. The video was uploaded in the official app for Android and it was apparently converted into simple animated gif. I can play it on the web, in the Android app and in Openvibe. Maybe your instance didn't properly cache it? 🤷 You can just open the post in the browser and play it there, it should work.
.. Eliška voňavkou na vlasy nastříkala panence vlasy a hraje si na kadeřnici ..
Eliška (5): "Tatí? Nemáš takovej malej fén?" Já: "Nemám. Na co potřebuješ fén?" Eliška: "Panenka se koupala a má mokrý vlasy." Já: "Nech mě chvíli přemýšlet .. co takhle dát jí do pokojíku na větrák (odvlhčovač) a nechat ji vysušit tam?" Eliška: "Hmm .. to není dobrý nápad. To by měla panenka rozcuchaný vlasy"
Jup, ty kolečka jsou moc malý a když zahučíš do dostatečně hlubokýho písku/štěrku/bláta/whatever, tak se to přední kolo prostě zapíchne a je z toho krásnej katapult 😀
@noelreports @jirikyr pokud je překážka menší než poloměr předního kola, tak je to jen výsledek suboptimální práce s těžištěm 🤣
Já se teda zastavení předního kola děsím, ale zatím všechny moje držky na koloběžce byly způsobené smykem předního kola, v přímce to vyleká, v zatáčce je ale hotovo. 🤕
Dokoukal jsem právě prezentaci @Randahl Fink z #DeepSec 2024 a byť to bylo celkem #USA a #Rusko centrický co se příkladů týče, rozhodně to stojí za shlédnutí, byť má hodinu.
Já si ale myslim, že tady na #Fediverse / #Mastodonu a dalších asi víme, jaký jsou rizika #dezinfo na socnetu, kde vyhodí 80% personálu, protože "moderátoři nejsou potřeba", ale jak tohle dostat k běžnýmu Frantovi ze seníku, to je pro mě otázka, na kterou nenacházim odpověď.
Každopádně kdo jste viděl (a klidně i kdo ne), klidně vesele #diskutujme, třeba mě něčim inspirujete 😀
We are in the middle of the most dangerous information war in the history of mankind, and the survival of democracy depends on what we do next.
My DeepSec 2024 presentation on mass information warfare is now online. Here I reveal how Russia wages an international war on truth, and I show how we can all be part of the resistance.
We are in the middle of the most dangerous information war in the history of mankind, and the survival of democracy depends on what we do next.In this presen...
Protože se u @Randahl Fink začaly objevovat rusácký trollí účty, shrňme si postup, jak to funguje na #Fediverse s řešením takových lidí/botů: 1. Díky funkční moderaci je poznáte podle toho, že mají pouze pár dní starý účet a minimum sledujících, kteří jsou obvykle také součástí trollí farmy (boostují se navzájem) 2. Nahlašujte! Ten vykřičník je záměrně, protože bez toho to nefunguje. 3. Moderátor instance obvykle po čase (den dva) zareaguje
Nevěříte? Věřte! 😀
Jen věřím tomu, že pro moderátory to musí bejt hrozná otrava, protože vždycky někde vylezou...
dneska je nějaký kokot den, protože s kým jsem se bavil, ten si na něco stěžoval 😁 Dneska bych to oficiálně prohlásil za #kokotdělí a snad nebude zítra #kokoterý.
Georgian police trying to push back protestors and beating up those that are being caught. Across the country, tens of thousands have gathered and protests are growing.
This is how protesters were dispersed in Georgia yesterday by Georgian security forces. A lot of them appeared in black outfits without identification.
@noelreports Koukal jsem na videa z demonstrací a zajímavé jsou vlajky co tam mají. Kromě Gruzínských je tam hodně vlajek EU a Ukrajiny. Je tam vidět ta relativita - u nás je pro spoustu lidí EU maximální zlo, pro někoho jiného je to vysněný ráj.
Tak je to tu. #Rusko a jeho #propaganda už asi objevili #Mastodon / #Fediverse .. u @kravietz 🦇 byl ještě jeden profil se stejným contentem (pravděpodobně stejnej člověk / farma).
Já: "Chodíš na nějakej ten kroužek po škole" Lenička: "Ano, dneska jsme měli výtvarnej" Já: "A co jste tam dělali?" Lenička: "Nooo .. jsme tam čtyři děti a z toho půlka se pořezala!"
Nebuďte blbci a hlídejte si ceníky a kalendáře dodavatelů #energie
U #Fonergy jsem si to tentokrát nepohlídal - snížili mi zálohu při stejným ceníku podstatně níž, než měli. Výsledek? Nedoplatek 7500 Kč jen za elektřinu.
#Elektřina nezdražila, nadspotřeba je zhruba za 2500 Kč. Zbytek jsou nesmyslně snížený zálohy dodavatele.
Člověk prostě musí hlídat fakt úplně všechno ... :/
Letos se podobně vytáhlo Innogy. V bytě po mamce minimální odběr plynu. Po loňském přeplatku mi snížili zálohy, které všem nestačily na úhradu distribuce 💁 Nedoplatek teda jen 344,-.
![Vážená paní Pevná,</p><p>nevím, zda jste můj e-mail četla, nebo máte nějakou generickou odpověď pro všechny, takže to zkusím znovu a lépe a poprosím, abyste se vyjádřila k tomu, o čem mluvím. To, že oceňujete, že pan Šnor znepřístupnil zprávoboty je sice hezké, ale absolutně absurdní s ohledem na to, jaký je účel toho, že Vás jako médium máme. Navíc si všimněte, že jsem užití ochranných známek označil jako pochopitelnou, byť šla řešit podstatně civilněji třeba výzvou k nepoužívání ochranné známky, takže by kromě Vás byl spokojen i uživatel, který prostřednictvím sítě zpravodajství konzumoval.</p><p>Zkusím to tedy znovu a stručněji:<br> - Je dle Vaší logiky jakýkoliv odkaz na Váš obsah protiprávním jednáním?<br> - Dle Vašeho vyjádření tedy stačí upustit od použití ochranné známky a namísto slova "bot" dostatečně důrazně upozornit na to, že se nejedná o oficiální profil ČT, aby veřejnost nebyla uvedena v omyl? Například názvem profilu ČT24 [neoficiální mirror]?<br> - Pokud ani jedno nestačí, jak se stavíte k tomu, že vyhledávače bez výslovného svolení používají a odkazují na Váš obsah? Nebo toto výslovné povolení všechny vyhledávače mají?<br> - Jak se stavíte k tomu, že se na Vašem obsahu placeném z koncesionářských poplatků živí Google, Meta, X a podobné - často pochybné - soukromé subjekty?<br> - Když teď budu sdílet (a je úplně jedno, jestli ručně nebo botem) pod svým profilem odkazy na Váš obsah, znamená to, že se dle Vašeho právního názoru dopouštím protiprávního jednání?<br> - Nepřipadá Vám celá tato situace naprosto absurdní v tom, že se toho ČT ujala destruktivně ("všechno zrušte") namísto konstruktivně ("Tohle u Vás nechcem, ale tady máte RSS kanál, který můžete zrcadlit, jen u toho prosím nepoužívejte naše jméno a ochranné známky. A děkujeme, že to děláte zdarma a ve volném čase.")?</p><p>Přeji krásný den a klidné svátky.</p><p>S pozdravem](https://schmaker.eu/photo/1333134194675b40e4afeec974367133-1.png "Vážená paní Pevná,</p><p>nevím, zda jste můj e-mail četla, nebo máte nějakou generickou odpověď pro všechny, takže to zkusím znovu a lépe a poprosím, abyste se vyjádřila k tomu, o čem mluvím. To, že oceňujete, že pan Šnor znepřístupnil zprávoboty je sice hezké, ale absolutně absurdní s ohledem na to, jaký je účel toho, že Vás jako médium máme. Navíc si všimněte, že jsem užití ochranných známek označil jako pochopitelnou, byť šla řešit podstatně civilněji třeba výzvou k nepoužívání ochranné známky, takže by kromě Vás byl spokojen i uživatel, který prostřednictvím sítě zpravodajství konzumoval.</p><p>Zkusím to tedy znovu a stručněji:<br> - Je dle Vaší logiky jakýkoliv odkaz na Váš obsah protiprávním jednáním?<br> - Dle Vašeho vyjádření tedy stačí upustit od použití ochranné známky a namísto slova \"bot\" dostatečně důrazně upozornit na to, že se nejedná o oficiální profil ČT, aby veřejnost nebyla uvedena v omyl? Například názvem profilu ČT24 [neoficiální mirror]?<br> - Pokud ani jedno nestačí, jak se stavíte k tomu, že vyhledávače bez výslovného svolení používají a odkazují na Váš obsah? Nebo toto výslovné povolení všechny vyhledávače mají?<br> - Jak se stavíte k tomu, že se na Vašem obsahu placeném z koncesionářských poplatků živí Google, Meta, X a podobné - často pochybné - soukromé subjekty?<br> - Když teď budu sdílet (a je úplně jedno, jestli ručně nebo botem) pod svým profilem odkazy na Váš obsah, znamená to, že se dle Vašeho právního názoru dopouštím protiprávního jednání?<br> - Nepřipadá Vám celá tato situace naprosto absurdní v tom, že se toho ČT ujala destruktivně (\"všechno zrušte\") namísto konstruktivně (\"Tohle u Vás nechcem, ale tady máte RSS kanál, který můžete zrcadlit, jen u toho prosím nepoužívejte naše jméno a ochranné známky. A děkujeme, že to děláte zdarma a ve volném čase.\")?</p><p>Přeji krásný den a klidné svátky.</p><p>S pozdravem")
Honza
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •you might wanna checkout ratrig too, they're a Portuguese company (tho I don't know where they manufacture the printers, Prusa has factory in Prague) and are kind of open too.
As for Slicer, you can use Prusaslicer for Bambulab or Creality, Bambulab has their own slicer opensourced (actually fork from Prusaslicer) and AFAIK works on linux.
You'll always be able to use freecad, blender whatever modelling tool. You model it and export STL, which can be then fed into any slicer.
As for HW, it's hard to say. Průša core one isn't much more pricey than Bambu, what it can do we shall yet to see.
Bambulab started as closed source, but it seems they've been opening at least some of it (they now allow custom firmware, allegedly offline firmware updates, so you can run them fully offline), whereas Průša has moved from the 100% opensource to someting more restrictive, still being much more open than Bambulab.
N. B. I'm a Prusa owner and have never owned a Bambulab.
AliasVortex
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •I just realized that there are some important questions that none of us are asking (it sounded like you've already done some research, and have an idea of what you want (or at least what you think you need), but just so that everyone's all on that same page):
cyberwolfie
in reply to AliasVortex • • •In general, I want to build my skill set to include CAD-modelling and printing things that could help me around my home and for other non-helpful, but fun, things. Some examples below. I am not looking at adding this to my professional skill set.
In general, I would like to tinker some. But I don't want it to be prohibitively difficult to get started. I am new to this, and am not looking for an incredibly steep learning curve. For instance, I have understood that the Voron might suit my desire for openness more, but my impression is that it would be too much tinkering at this stage.
The immediate projects I have in mind are cases for various Pi/Pi Pico-based projects. Some indoor climate monitors for instance. There are several other smaller projects I have in mind, which could be for instance some custom mounts for my devices. So not too large things to begin with, and these things are what is most important to me now. But I want a multipurpose printer, that could handle both smaller figurines and larger sculptures also (not that exceeds the print volume of the Core One as of now). I know for instance that miniatures would probably be a lot better with a resin printer, but for now I don't have a space that is properly ventilated for this. In the future I will consider getting more specialized printers if I find that I need it and have space for it.
The Core One is in the higher end of what I had envisioned spending on this, but I can go a little higher if necessary
huginn
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •Tbh it sounds like the core one is a good choice here. Look at tinkering as something you use the printer to do and less as something to do to the printer itself.
I've got 2 prusas and while the XL has required a bit more work than my mk3s+ they both are excellent machines that I've run for thousands of hours with very little effort.
Welcome to the hobby! CAD modeling is the absolute best way to make your printer useful. A good pair of calipers are all you need to solve myriad issues around the house.
cyberwolfie
in reply to huginn • • •AliasVortex
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •Depending on how much you value open source vs domestic production, part of me thinks that you may want to consider the Sovol SV08. Sovol is based out of China, but that printer is basically a Voron 2.4 modified for mass production (ie much of the printer comes preassembled), and because of it the printer is very open source, as in here's the GitHub repo. My only major concern would be that the machine ships with a non-standard hot end, however I recently learned (Here) that the community already has a mod to fix that. You also gain a much bigger build volume, for a fraction of the upfront investment. (Edit: That said, it may not be the most beginner friendly machine in existence (see replies))
I'm also somewhat hesitant to recommend a machine that isn't out and doesn't really have any reviews yet. With any new product launch like this, I'd almost guarantee that there will be a teething period as the bugs, glitches, and hiccups all get worked out (as goes the early adopter tax). Which means that you may face a slightly steeper leaning curve as someone new to the hobby (Prusa has been around for a hot minute, so I don't expect it to be too bad, but it's still worth mentioning). That said, if none of that scares you and if you're already prepared for the pricetag, Prusa's are known to be absolute workhorses, there's no reason they can't be entry level machines.
GitHub - Sovol3d/SV08: SV08 is a flying gantry Core-XY printer with a print area of 350x350x345mm, also a derivative work based on Voron V2.4. It aims to provide an alternative solution for 3D printing enthusiasts who are eager to use Voron V2.4 but are h
GitHubWFH
in reply to AliasVortex • • •dorkage
in reply to WFH • • •I have had a SV08 for a few weeks. Had a K1 Max for the same time period. I had 2 or two failed prints on the SV08 and about 3 dozen failed prints.
I returned the K1 Max (with huge struggles with support)
Previously I had a Labist ET4 that only worked for a out 5 prints total before giving up on it.
I will agree with your statement. If you are willing to put in a bit of research on YouTube and GITHUB and swap a few parts and spend a few hours you'll have a hilarious large printer that just spits out almost anything you throw at it, besides ABS and ASA... For now...
AliasVortex
in reply to WFH • • •I don't personally own one, so that's really good to know! I mostly thought of it since it checked most of what OP was looking for, without being a full on Voron. That's said, I'm not sure how much of a beginner machine the Core One will be either. Regardless, I'll add a proceed with caution on my recommendation.
Out of curiosity, what upgrades did you have to make to sv08?
(I also graduated from the Thessian Ender 3 program and went to a v2.4)
WFH
in reply to AliasVortex • • •Miquel 🖌️⚔️👾
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •I am happy MK4S owner and would recommend the CORE, but some considerations:
- Print volume IS small. Not having at least 250x250 x/y has been a step back from my previous printer.
- The platform is less open than I wished (or, better said, than they make us believe).
- I'd recommend getting the kit so you will get to know the printer better. However, CORE's build process difficulty is yet to be seen. I built my own MK4S and it was a fun weekend project.
cyberwolfie
in reply to Miquel 🖌️⚔️👾 • • •Hm, I don't think I can quite grasp how much of a difference it would make to have a couple of cm extra in each direction. For my actual planned projects, I know it will be sufficient (except for one, where none of the consumer grade printers would be, and I would need to splice multiple parts somehow). But I also know that the list of planned projects will expand much faster than I am able to plan, design and print...
Hm, in what way have you experienced any problems with this? I understand that it is not fully open source, but as far as I could tell, you can't go much more open without going with a Voron?
I would love to get the kit, both as a learning experience and a fun project. However, they are not shipping the kits until April/May or something like that, while the assembled printers start shipping in January. I don't think I want to wait that long.
HewlettHackard
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •cyberwolfie
in reply to HewlettHackard • • •bluewing
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •There are a fair number of methods to join pieces into larger assemblies.
Some people have used a 3D pen to "weld" an assembly. But from my observation, it's not particularly strong.
Super glues are popular for PLA. It bonds and holds well to PLA.
PETG is better glued with epoxies vs super glues. But super glue will work in a pinch.
Sometimes printing threaded parts is acceptable. But issues with fitment and strength of threads can be a problem.
Simple machine screws and nuts are good for somethings. Even self-tapping screws are popular.
Heat set brass threaded inserts are cheaply and widely available. And can be set with a cheap soldering iron.
Various "snap together couplers" can be designed and 3D printed.
These are just a few ways to make assemblies with 3D printed parts. The trick is to learn how to choose what is the best for any particular model and that's on you.
Making a model hold water can be as simple as "the thicker is better" approach by adding more perimeters and top and bottom layers. Or it can involve applying various suitable paints and sealers. Again like fasteners, your use will most likely dictate the methods that you choose.
Edit to add: From what I can see, PrusaSlicer currently offers the best tools to create cuts and locators right in the slicer. With perhaps Cura a close second, (but I haven't use Cura in couple of years now).
cyberwolfie
in reply to bluewing • • •grue
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •cyberwolfie
in reply to grue • • •Miquel 🖌️⚔️👾
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •RE: Open-Source
> in what way have you experienced any problems with this?
For example, and I know is very niche, but I wanted to fix an issue with their app (I am an app dev), to discover that it isn't FOSS like the slicer.
Also as a CAD aficionado, I would love to get the actual step files and not just STLs.
But don't get me wrong, none of these was a blocker for me to get a MK4S.
I am also not sure if I will upgrade to CORE, but that's another story.
cyberwolfie
in reply to Miquel 🖌️⚔️👾 • • •Ah, yeah, I would also have expected their app to be open source.
Are the step files not generated by the slicer?
bluewing
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •No, .step file is an exchange format, (think .pdf files), that can be used across different CAD programs to import geometry so you can work on them.
Unlike the common .stl format, a .step file contains a majority of the internal information that was created by original CAD model. While an .stl file is just meshes and nothing else.
PrusaSlicer can use .step files directly to slice. But I'm not sure that other forks/slicers can. I like models in .step file because it's far easier to open them in whatever 3D CAD software I'm using to make changes to a model to suit my needs. I can do .st' files, but it's a pain to work with them.
bluewing
in reply to Miquel 🖌️⚔️👾 • • •For many people the size will be fine. Most people can get along with 180 cubed for probably 80% of their printing needs. Not a lot of people need the really large print volumes.
I would assume that a CORE kit would come with Prusa's excellent assembly instructions. Which should make it quite easy to put together.
I'm starting to think that Prusa is switching their focus from consumer grade printers to entry level pro machines and better. Prusa can't really afford to be in that market as the race to the bottom accelerates. But there is a niche for small business use and full blown commercial use. Qidi seems to be the only player in that market right now. And the CORE seems to offer all the goodies that Qidi has with a much better reputation for reliability and support that would appeal to a small business.
Miquel 🖌️⚔️👾
in reply to bluewing • • •I am sharing my personal experience with the MK4S, since I went down from a 256^3 printer.
Belt tensioning on the MK4S Kit was a pain to do, so I am curious how belt tensioning for a core kit will go. I hope they give a better solution than the tuning app, as tensioning belts for a core xy is noticeably harder.
Neither of these are blockers anyway, like I said, I am happy with my MK4S.
bluewing
in reply to Miquel 🖌️⚔️👾 • • •Yeah, There are some maintenance things with CoreXY I'm not overly impressed with. The belts being one of them. Still, I think they are the future for consumer printers now. It's going to be interesting to see how the CORE does in the market.
I did consider an up grade to my Mk3s to Mk4 abilities. But in the end I didn't figure it was worth the money and effort for my needs. In the end, it might be considered slow now but it's a tank of a printer. I am considering upgrading the control system by adding Klipper to my Raspberry Pi and flashing new firmware for the old 8bit Rambo board. It sounds like it would get me a Mk3.5 level of control and speed.
Nate Cox
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •I advise against getting the brand new thing. My experience has been that frequently the reliability and feature set of yet-to-be-released things tend to be highly overstated. The CORE looks cool but I would give it six months after release before you consider buying one so you can see some real reviews.
Prusa has a pretty decent track record but they are really branching out of their comfort zone now and I would be cautious.
If you don’t want to wait, the Bambu P1S is a phenomenal printer. I wish they were more open along with everyone else but I have many, many, many hours on mine and has been an excellent purchase. It was a massive upgrade from my Prusa Mk3S.
ricdeh
in reply to Nate Cox • • •ExcessShiv
in reply to ricdeh • • •cyberwolfie
in reply to Nate Cox • • •Nate Cox
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •The XL is indeed corexy but it’s also marketed to professionals who would be able to navigate any issues. I’ve seen some mixed reviews on if it’s good.
FWIW, Prusa has definitely had some major failures. The MMU2 was fundamentally broken on release with sensors that were unreliable at best and the community had to step in with replacement models to get it even somewhat reliable.
Just be wary of trusting the brand. I like Prusa too but they aren’t immune to misses.
For me, pre-purchasing a Phrozen resin printer that every single YouTube influencer assured me was the absolute best printer ever made only for it to be an absolute mess that just sits on my shelf unused because it is complete garbage, was my lesson to wait for the reviews.
grue
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •I'm pretty sure everything about Creality is Free Software, including both firmware and their self-branded slicing software (which I think is a fork of Slic3r, just like everybody else's?).
I just bought an Ender 3 V3 SE and have been using it with FreeCAD and PrusaSlicer (on Linux) and sometimes controlling the printer with Octoprint -- I haven't even bothered downloading anything from Creality yet.
I picked the printer because it's supposedly currently the best cheap 3D printer (mine was an open-box from Microcenter for $135). It doesn't tick your last three boxes, but you can't beat the price!
BastingChemina
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •I think the Core ONE will be an excellent way to start 3D printing.
I was in the same situation a year ago and got a MK4 kit with enclosure and I'm extremely happy with the purchase.
cyberwolfie
in reply to BastingChemina • • •Owl
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •agile_squirrel
in reply to Owl • • •morbidcactus
in reply to agile_squirrel • • •Assuming heat creep. Pla's transition temp is like, in the low 50s +/- a few deg c if I recall, it goes wet noodle and can easily cause jams, absolute pain in my ass doing a bunch of pla prints in the summer on my mk3s inside a prusa enclosure, ended up setting the plate to something like 30c, had issues even with the 140mm exhaust fan on to try dropping the chamber temp. I rarely print pla in my voron, it's basically hot bed set very low and relying on my print surface to keep the print anchored when I do. Not had issues with petg in an enclosure, personally would recommend using an enclosure for all prints anyhow, even pla gives off some nasties as far as I recall.
I personally prefer abs to either petg or pla for general use, I keep all on hand as there's not a filament best for all use cases.
Edit: Assuming you have an enclosure filter. I highly recommend something like the nevermore (use a stealthmax on my voron). I do also keep my printers outside of my home, which I know not everyone can do. If I had them inside, I'd set up something to vent the room outside as well as having enclosure filters, some filaments are worse than others, Nevermore includes citations to a bunch of relevant studies regarding air pollution while printing
GitHub - nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro: Activated Carbon Filters. Bad smells or fumes, or complaints thereof, should not keep you from being a maker!
GitHubanguo
in reply to morbidcactus • • •I just have to clarify that this is only useful if your enclosure also has a filter.
morbidcactus
in reply to anguo • • •capably8341
in reply to Owl • • •cyberwolfie
in reply to capably8341 • • •TheYang
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •I think you have it down pretty well.
It's not perfectly open Source. Upgradeability can be reasonably expected, it's not the cheapest, but a very good option.
One more thing that could be considered is if one believes Prusa may die as a company. That would of course reduce the aspect of upgradeability. Personally I believe they are fine, and just growing slower (more organically? Than Bambu for example).
Also Bambu will bring out another printer in a similar timeframe as Core 1 will come out. Depending on priorities it can make sense to wait to compare the offerings.
But I don't think, given your reasonig you'd be making a mistake if you could buy now.
bluewing
in reply to TheYang • • •I'm not so sure Prusa will go out of business. But I can see them switching focus from consumer machines to "pro-consumer" machines due to the race to the bottom with consumer machines. It's impossible for Prusa to compete with Chinese manufacturers on price. The XL and the HT90 already appear to be moves towards that focus.
While I have recently added a Bambu A1 mini to sit along side my trusty old Mk3s+, that Prusa ain't going nowhere. You will get my Mk3s when you can pry it from my cold dead hands..........
cyberwolfie
in reply to bluewing • • •Yes, that has been my impression during my research as well.
bluewing
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •anguo
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •In my opinion, the only disadvantage is the cost.
But even the cost difference might get recouped later on, if Prusa continues releasing upgrade kits the way they've been doing it for the i3 line. Support is also excellent. I broke a thermistor while upgrading a printer, and they sent me a free replacement because it was unclear if it was my fault or not.
Another disadvantage might be that you'll become a militant Prusa fanboy, and never look at another brand again ;)
cyberwolfie
in reply to anguo • • •Yeah, I'm OK with the cost of it. I don't only consider a feature vs. price picture, but also factor in things (like you say) support and longevity/sustainability.
The militant fanboyism surprised me a bit (maybe it shouldn't have?) - looking at some of the comments below YouTube-reviews was.... interesting...
anguo
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •EmilieEvans
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •Get a BambuLab P1S without AMS.
You can use PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, Cura or some other slicer with them. They run perfectly fine in LAN-mode removing the Bamub Lab server stuff/question from the equation.
While not every replacement parts are also made by third party companies things like nozzles, PEI-sheets or fans are available from third parties.
I would argue money in the bank account is far more future-proof than any 3D printer can be and Bambu Lab costs a fraction of what a Prusa core one costs. So when the future arrives use the saved money to buy a next-gen printer.
Bambu Labs are well made so not a safety hazard but I can understand this point.
The Prusa core one looks very promising but at the same time, it isn't for everybody and the general consumer is likely better of by buying the P1S. For the price of 1 Prusa One you could buy 2 Bambu Lab P1S and 10-20kg of good PETG.
regarding Support: Difficult question. Prusa has excellent support but the last experience I had with their printers before dropping them wasn't that great and was riddled by issues/bugs.
BambuLab on the other have the it just works magic but the support needs to improve. You send them a bunch of log files as requested. They probably only look at the oldest file (that might be months old) and provide a "wrong" reply based on that as a solution without looking at the text you wrote.
SoulWager
in reply to cyberwolfie • • •I think you'll be happy. Coming from someone that's had a prusa mini for 3 years.
I also use FreeCAD, and I don't think you'll have a problem with that with any modern slicer, you can export in step to let the slicer do the meshing, or you can use the mesh workbench to get more control over the resolution of the mesh.
Don't worry too much about print volume. Can always break stuff up into multiple prints, and that's often a good idea even if the whole thing would fit inside the print volume.
I have killed a couple build plates, one from the TPU print sticking too well to PEI, and pulling chunks off, one from crashing the nozzle into it after I switched from a bare metal build plate to a PEI one without changing the Z offset.
Other than that, I've only really replaced one fan that was getting noisy.
As for filament, I use mostly PLA and ASA, because I don't need to do anything special to keep those dry enough to print. Probably around 60% PLA, 25% ASA, 15% TPU. PETG is fine, but I need to dry it to keep from getting steam bubbles in my prints, and can't really be bothered when I can just use ASA or PLA instead.
As for TPU, it will string like crazy if you don't dry it, but you can mitigate this with some parts by turning on "avoid crossing perimeters". Also try to avoid support material with TPU. I now print TPU on the back side(bare metal) of a third party build plate, using a very thin layer of glue stick.